Visiting neighbours

One of the running themes of our life here has been trying to warm the house. I think, now that we’re only about 10 days from leaving, we’ve finally got it sorted out. We have a little portable gas stove borrowed from Paul, the electric heater, brought in from the bedroom, and the woodstove, which smokes if you open the door, but thanks to the help of Albert, who lives down the road, and his brother Martin, smokes much less than it did when we first got here. People here are much more inclined to just try and help each other, and just figure stuff out, than what I’m used to in cities, where everyone just calls in an expert and pays them. It seems that it’s just expected that you try and do what you can to help neighbours and you know that they will do the same for you if you need it one day. There’s also much more of a culture of just dropping in on people. I still have to overcome a bit of nervousness and worry about imposing when we are the ones dropping in. But then you’re always welcomed, offered tea and a visit, and you can end up having really interesting chats with people. It makes me realize how isolated things are in cities, despite the people all around.

Yesterday, Anna and I went on a little journey, visiting neighbours and bringing cookies we’d made. We’re slightly awkward about it, but still, it was pleasant and we had an interesting chat with one man about his preference for living off the grid. He lived for 7 years, with no electricity, just living off the land with a donkey and cart to go gather firewood. Now he’s got 4 children and so he and their mother have compromised somewhat with the modern world, for the sake of the kids – because he doesn’t feel like his values should be pushed onto the kids, and it’s only fair they get to be a part of the modern world, and then they can make their own choices about how they want to live. I didn’t really understand why anyone would choose to remove themselves from the conveniences of the modern world, and the stimulation of the city, but I think I’m starting to get it now. It’s not a way of life I’d choose, but I can see the appeal now. There’s really something calming and satisfying about taking care of your own day-to-day living needs, and just being more integrated with nature. Not that we’re living rough or anything. We have electricity and running water and a car. But even the process of chopping wood up and gathering fallen twigs from the yard for burning, and watching the spring flowers coming up, and hearing the birds in the morning, all has a way of putting life into perspective and making one feel like everything is alright, and life is just a series of changes and that there’s no need to get too caught up in the problems of a moment.

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Our Irish (actually, Japanese) Steed

So here we are, my mother, my sister and I, house and cat sitting in Ireland. We are in a little cottage in the woods. While we are here, we have the use of the house owner’s car. This is a very, very good thing, because we are 9 miles into the countryside from the nearest town. The car, however, is not a boring old car. No. Much better than that. It’s a car with character. With flaws, you might say. But don’t we all have flaws?

Since I am the one with more driving experience between my sister and me, I am the one on the insurance, so only I can drive it. Because of this, the car sat for 3 weeks before I arrived while Anna was here on her own, and it was filled with mildew and mold when we opened up the door. We gave it a bit of a wipe down, and tried to sit on newspapers for a while. The mustiness has finally dissipated and the car smells relatively normal now. But it has some quirks…

There is a sunroof (oh, the irony of that name) and it leaks when it rains. This being the west side of Ireland, it rains or threatens to rain most of the time. To deal with this, when the car is parked at home, we put a big plastic bag across the top and anchor it there with a stone and a piece of wood. But sometimes I get cocky, because the weather seems nice-ish, and go into the house for the night with no rain barrier pileup on the roof. If it rains in the night, and I wake up and hear it, I wince, chastise myself and hope it lets up, but there’s no way I’m getting myself out of that cozy bed to go stumble around in the cold, rainy dark to pile stuff onto the car roof. (The outside light is broken, and our flashlight too.) If it does rain heavily, then next time I get into the driver’s seat, I pay the price of being dripped on the top of the head as I drive. At the moment there’s a row of tissues stuffed into the crack of the sunroof to absorb the leaking water, but this is only a mitigating measure, and not a full solution, because of course, once those tissues are saturated, they just start dripping too. Also, it comes through the ceiling light sometimes as well (which seems like it must be bad for the lights, but so far they still work…)

But our car has more probl– i mean quirks! Ever since we arrived, the electric locks have been a bit funny. They switch themselves into the lock position at random times. It can happen when we’re driving, or it can happen when the car is stopped and off. It can have been recently turned off, or it can have been turned off for hours, when suddenly the locks decide, “security time!” and the car gets locked up snugly. The key only works in the driver’s door, so when this happens, if it’s when the car is stopped and we’re all outside of it, I unlock the driver’s door and reach over to push the locks on the other doors up. I have to hold the lock up until the person outside the door opens it, because, if it’s in a really security conscious mood, it immediately relocks itself. Now, this quirk wasn’t a big deal really, until our latest car issue. The driver’s side door lock has stopped working, and the door no longer opens. The lock has become stuck in the locked position. A mechanic had a look at it, and, after struggling with it for a good 30 minutes, said that the only way he can resolve it is by taking the door apart (not simple when you can’t open the door!), and he has no idea how much it’ll cost to fix it until he’s done that and can see what the problem is. Not wanting to hassle the owner with potentially costly problems, we’re just living with it for now. I exit and enter the car through the passenger door, climbing gingerly across to my seat, trying not to get mud from my rubber boots on the steering wheel or any seats.

But the real fun comes when the car decides to lock itself up when we’re outside of the car. I can no longer get in through the driver’s side door of course, and the only way to get in when this happens is to open the trunk, climb in, unlatch the back seats and push them forward, and then crawl on my belly through and into the car interior. The last time this happened we were parked out front of the Lady Gregory Hotel, a rather nice place, that is often quite full of people, as it was on this occasion as well. I had backed into the parking space, with the back end of the car in a shrub. It was raining, so I didn’t have the luxury of waiting for a quiet, people-free moment. There was no help for it. I took my dignity, carefully folded it off to one side, climbed into/onto the shrub, and clambered in through the trunk of the car. This is as awkward and inelegant as it sounds. Luckily, it doesn’t happen very often. Three times, so far. But I think I need to start considering the potential ramifications of my parking space choices, and look for more out of the way spots.

Then there are the tires. Balding to the point of wire showing through when we got the car, we had the back two changed. But they were retreads and it turned out that the sidewalls of one were not in very good shape at all, cracking actually. We didn’t notice this though, until driving home from a neighbour’s one night and we got stuck momentarily in the mud on the side of the road. In our sudden exit from this mud, we scraped by a hidden rock and our tire burst. It being the dark of night, we just hobbled home gently on it and went to bed. The next morning we got up to look at it, to see if it was refillable with our foot pump so we could get to the tire guy. Nope. There was a gaping rip in the side. Not the sort of thing you could drive 15 kilometers into town on. This meant changing the tire to the spare, which is something that I have managed to get this far in life with zero experience of. A bit intimidated by the task, we resorted to drinking cup after cup of tea and poring over the internet, catching up on the news and emails and so forth. But, in addition to being an excellent procrastination tool, the internet has other benefits. Armed with a YouTube video on jacking up a car, and a step by step page on changing a tire, Anna and I eventually went out there and tackled the job. We only solicited male help once when we called the tire place to ask why the tire wouldn’t come off after we’d removed the lug nuts. He remembered the car from replacing the back tires and said that he recalled these tires being quite sticky to get off and suggested we use a sledgehammer and whack at it until it loosened. Anna went at with the blunt end of the ax a few times, and lo! it released! I must say, I felt pretty puffed up and pleased with us as we rolled into town on our spare. We’d have had some really cool music playing to celebrate that victory drive, but the stereo system needs a code that we don’t have.

The sun roof after a night of rain

Anna helping out with the water leaking issues

Anna assessing the situation

The work of one rock, hidden in the mud...

Working on the lifting of the car

Those lug nuts don't let go easy. There was some jumping up and down on the wrench

Anna, she can wield an axe, that girl!

Settin' her back down.

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Taxi tensions

There’s a bus station just down the street from our school, and it’s generally a fairly reliable place to find a taxi, so I headed over there after work the other night. I hadn’t accounted for it being Thursday evening though, so it was very busy. The trouble is, there’s no queueing system, just a lot of people milling about trying to get taxis. Quite a few people were bunched up near the road trying to get the taxis as they came in. The problem with this approach is that if the taxis stop there, they end up blocking other taxis coming in, and then traffic gets backed up out on the road behind them, a lot of horns are honked and a lot of people get (understandably) testy. I stood with the group by the road, until being part of the problem started to weigh on my conscience, and then I moved inside to the proper area. No queue, as I mentioned, so I just sort of looked around, and thought I’d try and let some of these people go first, and then I eventually chose one guy with a suitcase as my queue-marker and decided that when he got a taxi, I’d start becoming more aggressive about getting one for myself.

So, I’m keeping an eye on him, Mr. Suitcase. He’s a bit nervous and shy about getting out there and just grabbing one. I’m silently urging him on. “Go on, it’s your turn…” And he would sort of start towards one, and then someone newer but more pushy would get it. “Oh, dear…” I’d think. “Okay, next one, it’s yours.” Meanwhile, a mini-van had stopped and let some people out, some of whom had joined our taxi-seeking group. Now, I’m starting to feel a little territorial about taxis, and I feel that these people need to hang back for a bit, in all fairness, and I’m getting a bit tense. Luckily, a couple minutes after the arrival of the minivan, Mr. Suitcase, gets out there and snags a cab! I’m pleased! I’m proud! I’m rejoicing in my heart! Partly for him, and partly because I consider myself next in line.

So, Mr. Suitcase talks to the cabbie through the window, and then walks back a few feet to where his suitcase is, tapping on the trunk as he goes, to get the driver to pop it open for him, which the driver does. But, wait! Some guy, fresh off the minivan, opens the front passenger door and climbs in! The nerve! I can’t believe it! I’m incensed! Mr. Suitcase, a gentle soul, if ever there was one, stands frozen on the way to his suitcase, staring at the cab. At this point, I’ve half a mind to go up to the door, open it, and tell Mr. Pushypants that he’s made a mistake, and this is actually someone else’s cab (even though we all know full well this was no mistake – this was a blatant, outrageous taxi grab). But the trunk is popped, and someone’s going to have to close it before that cab can drive anywhere, so I just wait to see what will happen. I’m also looking at Mr. Suitcase and silently urging him to just get his suitcase, put it in the trunk and get in the taxi. A few tense moments, and all is resolved; the driver tells the second guy to get out, and he does. I say, out loud,“That was pretty pushy,” to him, which he ignores and he walks away. Mr Suitcase hears me, and calls out after him, “Pushy, eh?” I think Mr. Pushypants at least had the good grace to be embarrassed, because he retreated to the back of the straggly group of taxi-seekers, and focused on texting on his phone after that. I was quite rejuvenated! I had been quite tired, but apparently I just needed a little drama to perk me up!

I also managed to get my very own taxi a few moments later. Maybe other people had similar senses of who had been waiting longest and whose turn it was as well, because no one tried to compete with me for it. Or maybe they had seen me glaring at and calling that other guy pushy, and were concerned for my mental well being and just thought it would be better for everyone to let me get out of there. I really think a little sign saying, “Queue here,” which the taxis would pull up to, wouldn’t go amiss at that spot.

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New Digs

So, here I am in Abu Dhabi in a significantly different set of circumstances to the last time I lived here:

  • I live right in the city this time, sharing a room with my mom in an apartment that we’re sharing with two other families – a Filipino couple and an Arab family (Syrian, I speculate?)
  • I’m working in the city too, at a college where they like us to work 8 contact (teaching) hours a day, on a split shift basis. This means starting at 9 am, and finishing at either 8 or 10 pm, with a few hours break in the middle, leaving little time for any outside life. To give them credit, this was in the contract, but I didn’t take it seriously – I thought they meant, if they were in a pinch, they wanted us to be willing to pitch in and do a longer day on occasion. Not so, it turns out!
  • No car – it’s taxis and buses this time around

The reason for these reduced circumstances is both my, and my mother’s, ambivalence about staying here for very long. The job is not a winner – as you can see with that schedule, there’s no time for any outside life! And so, in order to keep from being tethered by the ubiquitous year-long apartment rental contract, or by owning a car, we are renting this little room month-to-month, and taxiing (and occasionally busing), to get around. It would appear that in UAE labour law, an employee can give notice, effective immediately(!), within the three month probationary period of their contract. It’s been three weeks, and I don’t think I’m going to last three months, never mind longer than that! I don’t intend to leave them in the lurch, and neither does my mom, but neither of us feels inclined to stick this job out. I wouldn’t give them no notice, as it appears we legally can – that wouldn’t be right I don’t think, but perhaps two or three weeks notice? We’ll see.

Meanwhile, the housing situation, while not glamorous, has compensating bits of adventure and amusement built in. I believe that we are the only “Europeans” (read: Caucasian westerners) in the building; this brings us a small measure of fame. On occasion, in the elevator someone who we’ve never spoken to, and don’t recall seeing, will know that we need the button for the 10th floor pressed, and will even ask us, “Ten-zero-two?”, which is our apt number.

On a less endearing note, the kitchen, shared between the three families, is also shared by myriad six-legged wildlife. Mom and I have both discovered independently that it is a good idea to reach around the kitchen doorway to turn on the light and then just wait a moment before entering, to allow said wildlife to scuttle into hiding. This is less alarming for all parties involved, than the standard waltz-into-the-room-and-turn-on-the-light method, which results in panicked scattering of little beetle-y things, and a stifled scream from the human. The other two families are very clean, and even take their garbage out to the hallway garbage chute after cooking every meal (an example that we are following), but as the main renter and kind of our landlord, Jalil, said with an apologetic wince, “Is old building; some cockroaches, and other like this, coming some time.” Yes, they are coming sometimes, especially when the lights are out!

This round building is our neighbour. We're the boring square building on the right. Our room faces this street and is one floor below the top - it's an 11 story building.

 

The view from our room at night...

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Pink Ladies go on the Hajj

Hong Kong airport has a pay-to-use lounge, complete with very nice shower rooms and 15 minute massage. Since I was stuck there for 6 hours, I signed up to spend some of that time at the lounge. It was a very pleasant interlude. Which was good. I needed that calming peace for what was to come…

When I headed back to my gate, I could see from far off, that it was surrounded by a sea of pink-headressed women. When I actually got to the gate and sat down amongst them, I saw that they were a Muslim pilgrimmage group, going on the Hajj, from Cambodia, on their way to Mecca. There must have been at least 150 people in this group.

Pink ladies, heading to Mecca

The green patch on the back says 'Cambodia' in Arabic

Perhaps quite a few more, if you include the men, who didn’t stand out so much. My flight was scheduled to stop in Abu Dhabi and then continue on to Jeddah in Saudi. There were also several Indian looking men wearing what I can only describe as outfits made of large, white bath towels; each man wearing two: one as a sarong and the other as a shawl. I think this is the prescribed dress for men while doing the Hajj rituals but I don’t think you are also be expected to wear it on the plane. I guess they wanted to be really ready. Most strangely attired airplane gate company I’ve ever kept!  The pink ladies turned out to be fairly inexperienced with airplanes, and although I had deliberately waited till most people had boarded the plane so people would be settled in, when I did board, I was greeted by chaos anyway.  Diminutive Cambodian women in strange pink head coverings milling about confused and cheerful, sitting in the wrong seats, wandering past their assigned seats, then trying to make their way through all the bunched up people behind them back to their seats, trying to get things into the overhead compartments (which for a person under 5 feet tall requires assistance, or clambering, which they were quite willing to attempt!). Oh boy. When I eventually got to my seat, waaaaay back in row 60, it was, of course, already occupied by a cheerful little pink headed Cambodian lady. The flight attendant looked pleadingly at me and asked if I could just take any empty seat. We found me another window seat beside a Sikh man and he and I had a little conversation on the free-for-all going on around us. He speculated that on their flight from Cambodia to Hong Kong, there hadn’t been assigned seating. I speculate that it was like in my experience with Yemen flights – there is assigned seating, but it’s so universally ignored that there may as well not be. While we were sitting there talking, one older lady was attempting to stand up on her seat in the middle of the center section and, leaning way over her two neighbours, to reach around and up in order to put a bag in the overhead compartment. My expression must have conveyed my alarm, and my Sikh neighbor turned to see what I was looking at. He was just making a move to get up and help, before she or one of the bags tumbled onto other people, when the flight attendant ran over to sort it out.  Then he just quietly looked down, closed his eyes and shook his head. We were an hour late departing because of all of these shenanigans! But I have to say, they were awfully cute.

Now, the school has put me up in a very nice room, in a very la-di-da hotel, with a pool on the roof, and I’m going to thoroughly enjoy it!

Pool at hotel

View from my room,

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Xitang and some kindnesses of strangers

The town of Xitang

I had a rather unexpected day. It started out quite unpromisingly. I had a bad night’s (non) sleep because of a cold, which has moved into the nose and head phase. The previous day, I had booked a train ticket to a town called JiaShan, from which I understood I could get a bus or taxi to the town of Xitang, which a friend of mine had let me know was apparently very pretty (thanks, Melanie!), so I had proposed to make a solo daytrip of it, since my friend and travelling companion, Jen, was flying home the night before. I booked a train ticket there for 8 am, and one returning back to Shanghai at 6 pm. However, come morning, and the miserable way I was feeling, I decided to skip going for my 8 am train and to just sleep and lie-in until closer to noon. On a previous train trip, to Beijing, Jen and I had discovered that if you show up late, as in, you’ve completely missed your train, it’s gone, they just change the ticket, no penalty fines, or change fee, not even a scolding! It’s great! I highly recommend China’s trains.  Superfast, prompt, clean and comfortable, and flexible on ticket changes.

So, round about 11:00, I started out my day, stopped at Starbucks for half an hour to have a coffee, and then off to the train station.  I finally got there around 12:40, over 4 ½ hours late for my scheduled train, and found an English-speaking window at the ticket counter to have it changed at. The next train was at 1:47, so I was switched over to that. While I was standing at the counter, I saw a blonde woman several windows down, talking to the ticket agent in Chinese. Oh, she speaks Chinese; interesting, I thought. She was with a tall thin Arabic looking man. Next, I decided to head upstairs to McDonalds for some sort of breakfast. Starbucks, McDonalds…I have not been frequenting Chinese foodstops. Jen and I read an alarming paragraph in the lonely planet, backed by this article about the reuse of cooking fat gathered from the sewers, and have been avoiding fried food, especially from Chinese restaurants, ever since. Anyway, off to get my orange juice and hamburger. And who should I see up there but the blonde Chinese speaker and her Arabic friend, and then again, in the waiting area before getting on the train. Maybe she’ll be on my train and I can ask her where she learned Chinese, I thought idly. But, really, what are the chances we’d be seated near each other – unlikely. At 1:40 the boarding call for the train was announced and we all fed through the turnstiles down to the platform. I was in car two, seat 4F. As I made my way to my seat, I saw the blonde woman standing in the spot beside mine, blocking my way in, so I tucked into row 3 so that people could continue past, smiled at her and pointed to 4F and said, ‘that’s my seat.’ Well, my idle speculations had materialized; it turned out she was in 4E! So we chatted: She was from Russia, near the Kazakhstan border and started studying Chinese 7 years ago in university. Her name is Kristina, and she works for a Chinese construction company. The Arab man with her was Qatari and was the manager of a company contracting her employer, and another, chubby Arab man that I hadn’t seen before was also with them and was the customer. The two men were giving off the unpleasant air of arrogance and rudeness that some Gulf Arabs have— an unfortunate byproduct of a lot of money quite quickly, perhaps. (e.g. they’d pushed in front of me as we were boarding – I wanted to say, “Really, guys? Seriously? We’re all getting on the same train, and it’s assigned seating.” Instead, I quietly glared at their backs. That’ll teach them. They then proceeded to block the aisle while they put their bags up top and loudly discussed which of them would sit in which seat.)  Kristina, however, was an excellent counter to my previously acquired dislike of Russians based on some unpleasant experiences I had in the Moscow airport, and their common tendency to be rather cold and unfriendly on initial acquaintance. Yes, I can make sweeping generalizations with the best of them! She was quite sweet, and ended up completely taking me under her wing when we got off the train. It turned out these three were getting off at the same train station as me, and when Kristina realized how vague my understanding of how to get to the town of Xitang was, she made a point of taking me around at the train station to people and explaining in Chinese my plan and sorting out the best way to do it. She decided a taxi would be best. I said my goodbye then, and headed out to get a taxi. But I didn’t see any, so I wandered over to some minibus drivers and was trying to sort something out there, when Kristina and her customers emerged from the station and saw me. She marched over, removed me from the minivan guys (“They will take too much of your money…”) and took me to some police officers to explain. Even the Qataris weighed in when Kristina retrieved me and said, “don’t go in those vans alone.”  The police officers told me where to stand to wait for a taxi, and stand there I did, as instructed, until one came.

It was a morning of stereotyping: I have already told you how quickly I pigeonholed and dismissed the two Qatari men, and the sweeping generalizations I have made about Russians (all of these not without experiences to back them up, but still, I know I really shouldn’t). Kristina then proceeded to add her own stereotyping into the day’s mix. “Chinese people,” she told me, “when they see you, or me? They get dollar signs in their eyes. But not just for money, but for any way the can use you. With me, they lose interest when they realize I am Russian, but from the right country, like Canada or America, they will become strategic with you. I have lived here for two years and I have not had one real Chinese friend – I don’t trust them!” I must admit, having had my friend taken in the tea ceremony scam days earlier, and had it tried on me and my mom on a previous trip, I wasn’t inclined to dispute her and defend the Chinese at that point. However, my afternoon was to teach me a further lesson in the unreliability of stereotyping…

Now, you may have heard, or even experienced in Vancouver, that Chinese people can be a little bit pushy about transport. For example, it took me three attempts to get on a subway at rush hour one day. There’s sometimes a bit of a line up when you start out waiting, but it all falls to pieces and becomes this quiet, determined, impersonal, but aggressive shoving when the train arrives. on my second attempt to board, I found myself ripped apart from Jen, shunted off to the side and further back than I had started, this despite our holding hands for that attempt. So by the time the third train had come I was all geared up, strategically placed to be in the flow and ready to shove my way on. They don’t even wait for the people on the train to get off before pouring on, which is very inefficient. Rush hour in the subway is not pretty and a little bit scary; you wouldn’t want to lose your balance in that crush.  Anway, the point is, I’ve learned to be a little aggressive about getting transportation here. So when a taxi showed up, and a Chinese family was running towards it from one direction, I hurried just as fast from the other, and, getting there a second before them, quickly asked him, “Xitang?” claiming the taxi as mine. He nodded. Then the family arrived, and I turned to them and smiled and asked them the same thing. They nodded too, so I gestured that we could all go together.  They were agreeable, so we all climbed in, me in the back with the daughter and mother, and the father up front.  Off we went. The mother started talking to me then, in Chinese, quite chattily. I smiled and listened, because her manner seemed very pleasant and friendly, and then said, “I’m sorry, I don’t understand. “ She laughed and looked at her daughter. I guessed the daughter to be about 13, and I thought it possible she might know some English from school so I asked her, “Do you speak English?” Turns out she did! A little anyway and she started translating. So we three chatted away, sort of. The girl was actually graduated from high school and just started university, so she must have been about 17 or 18, but she really seemed younger. She had the mannerisms of a 12 or 13 year old – whining at her parents when she wanted something, jumping up and down when she was happy about something (as I witnessed later), and burying her head in her mother’s shoulder when she was embarrassed or didn’t know how to translate. They were surprised I was going all alone to the town, and disappointed that I wouldn’t see it at night when the lanterns were all lit up. When we arrived, the father paid for the taxi, and when I tried to give him half the taxi fare, he wouldn’t let me.  He understood some English, and knew quite a few words, but his daughter said it had been so long since he’d studied that he’d forgotten a lot and couldn’t remember how to construct sentences, so it was only the daughter and I talking. And so, into the pretty little water canal town we wandered. Now, I assumed they’d want to go their own way, and that we’d all separate, but when I stopped at the top of the first bridge and was suggesting that I’d wander off to the left now, there was some consternation and conferencing, and they really seemed to want me to continue with them. Um. Okay. So, we carried on, and when I stopped to take pictures, thinking they’d carry on, they didn’t; they waited for me, and the girl took pictures, of the scenery and of me and her. Eventually, we got to their hotel, the father went in and put his stuff down, and then we all carried on with our wander. It was the funniest thing. Looking back, I think it may have been for the daughter’s entertainment that they stuck with me – like a stray puppy or kitten they’d picked up and she had taken a shine to. So we all wandered the town for the next couple of hours, stopping to eat items that I was highly suspicious of in terms of ‘what was this fried in?’, but felt I couldn’t turn down when they were pressing me so eagerly to try them. There was a vaguely fishy tasting fried tofu square –most of which I managed to surreptitiously throw out, but then a second was pressed on me, since I’d clearly liked the first one so

Our tofu snack being prepared. That oil doesn't look promising.

well and eaten it all up! That’s what I get for being duplicitous.  There were fried baby potatoes, which I gave in and just ate since I did actually like them (I told myself repeatedly, like a little mantra, only 10% of meals have sewer oil in them, so chances are good that these potatoes don’t), and some strange rice wine stuff, which I had a miniscule sip of and declined any more of, having learned from the tofu square to just be honest, and said I didn’t like.

I had also tried to indicate to them that I was okay on my own and didn’t need babysitting, by eyeing up coffee shops, and saying maybe I’d go for a coffee in a bit. But then they just took me into a restaurant of their choosing and bought me a Nescafe, at considerable expense to them, I’m afraid. 35 yuan for a small Nescafe?! That’s like $5.50! However, it was already done before I realized what was up.

After that, it was time for me to be getting a taxi back, but my return train ticket was from a different town than the one we came in to. I had actually noticed this and tried to change it at Shanghai station earlier, but the girl said that one couldn’t be changed. My new family had a hard time accepting that, and so they took me out to the main road to find a taxi. There weren’t any around, and the father disappeared up the road looking for one. He came back after about 10 minutes in one. He had negotiated a good fare for me, and made the driver promise to come into the station with me and change the ticket.

I said my goodbyes to my new Chinese family and headed off to the train station, passed on to the care of the taxi driver, who did indeed dutifully come into the train station, jump the queue, and try to get my ticket changed. After much moving around in the station, it was determined that because it was for a different starting point I’d just have to buy a new ticket. There was a train leaving in 10 mins, and a ticket could be bought for the equivalent of $3. And I was off home, after meeting little angels of helpfulness from the most unexpected quarters, and having some of my stereotypes shattered in the pleasantest way, before my eyes.

My sweet Chinese family

Awfully pretty place - I wish I could have seen it at night with the lanterns all lit up!

Some houses along the canal

A narrow canal with willows all along one side.

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New Modes of Transport: C-130, Rhino, Ice-cream truck, and a Blackhawk

So, let me tell you about some vehicles and other things I traveled in coming here. (Also, a little note: all the photos on the post are off the internet, not my own. I didn’t have my camera handy during any of this traveling about.)

We left Fort Benning, Georgia, to travel to Kuwait on a military-chartered commercial jet, with a 2-hour stop in a small German city. During the stopover in Germany, I found some comfortable chairs I could stretch out on, and, along with a lot of other people who stretched out similarly, both contractors (like me) and military, I dozed off. I thought ours was the only military flight stopped there at that time, so I figured that as long as I could see the woman in uniform across from me, when I occasionally surfaced from sleep, I was fine; no doubt we must be on the same plane. I drifted in and out of dreams, dead tired. At some point, I heard them call for a flight, but assumed it wasn’t mine because I thought everyone in this holding area was on the same plane and my woman in army wear was still there.

And then, a little while later, I was shaken awake by someone, and asked, “Ma’am? Are you on that other world flight?” And for just a moment, a second or two, I was completely bewildered. I sat up and stared at him. Other world? Well, I HAD been dreaming, that’s otherworldly, and I have entered into a completely new world to me – that of the American military. And then my common sense woke up too, and I registered: I had seen a World logo on the wingtip of the plane, and on the safety procedures card. I said, “um, maybe; yes, yes, that could be,” and got up and followed the man to an exit. Sure enough, there was the tarmac bus all full of familiar faces, waiting. Luckily, there were three of us (all contractors, of course) who pulled this stunt, and I was the first one they hustled back, so my guilty embarrassment was mitigated somewhat by that.

Sleeping quarter tents in Ali Al Salem Air Base in Kuwait.

Between my arrival in Kuwait, and my arrival in Union III, which is one of the bases in Baghdad, I was on my own. This stretch was where the helpful, chivalrous tendencies of American men (and women too, actually) saved the day. I have never received so much unasked for, but very much appreciated and welcome, assistance in carrying stuff, as from these people throughout the entire journey. Two duffel bags, one with a lot of armour and helmet, and two carry-ons, each with a laptop, proved well beyond the puny muscles I carry on these sticks I call arms. (I have made and broken several promises to myself to start attending the gym here to rectify that before I head back.) I could only manage my own stuff if I did it in three trips, thereby necessarily abandoning some two-thirds of it during most of the procedure.

We arrived in Kuwait in the evening, were bused to a military airfield, and there in the dark hot night, we formed chain lines to unload our bags from the trucks. In my line, there were three of us women contractors, all kind of weak and sissyish, next to each other. So the guys arranged the line so that we stood as our own little parallel, offshoot line of three, and when a light bag would come along, they’d give it to us, but any heavy bags, they would pass along their own side. It was very sweet, because I think it was actually more work to include us, but they were trying to make us feel we were doing something useful.

Living large at Ali Al Salem! I don't know where these people got pillows. They must have brought them. I just laid my little fleece blanket on the bed to separate me from some of the sand it was coated in, and used a sweater for a pillow. I slept soundly though, so I can't complain really.

That Kuwait airfield was a funny place. I was only there for about 18 hours, and that was quite enough for me, thanks very much. It’s a very transient place. Everyone’s waiting to go somewhere else, sleeping in tents, (which always have to have the fluorescent lights on – day and night, because people come and go day and night) with no bedding provided, walking across the hot gravel and sand out to the bathroom buildings or to the food area. To leave this little patch of heaven, you go to the big flight-scheduling/waiting building, and get yourself placed on a list for your destination. After that, you’re responsible for checking the schedule, and then, for every time which is posted for your destination, you just have to show up, 3 hours early and hope to get a seat. My first flight option was for 7:00 a.m., so I dragged myself and my bags over to the building for the 4:00 a.m. show time and waited, hoping to make that flight. No such luck. Dragged all my stuff back to temporary baggage storage (with help from my new friend Terrance), went to have a shower and a nap until my next show time – noon. Woke up at 11:30 and ran back to the flight manifest building. This time, thank God, I was high enough on the list to get called! If you miss one of the show times and your name is called, but you’re not there to answer, it goes down to the bottom of the list. But, after my lapse in Germany, I had turned over a new, responsible leaf!

So, I was now manifested to fly on a C-130, which meant nothing to me, until we arrived at the airplane. I don’t know if many other people are familiar with this kind of aircraft, but it’s no commercial jetliner. It’s a big open plane inside, with a lot of the mechanics visible around you. You’re not tucked inside a cozy little shell with overhead compartments and movie screens and soft, reclinable seats with trays, perhaps a window, and a tidily coiffed flight attendant to bring you food and drink. No, no, no. The seating is all lined up vertically in four rows, facing the sides of the plane. Everyone’s carry-on is piled up at your collective feet. There are two rows, one each along the inside walls of the plane, facing each other, and two, back to back along the center line. Ear plugs are handed out before take off – very necessary! – and we had to wear our armour. There was no AC, that is NO air-conditioning. And it’s very, very hot in Kuwait.  Everyone’s face was covered in a sheen of sweat, sometimes rivers of sweat. It was not a comfortable ride. We were jam packed in there, I tell you. When one of the crew had to go past us, he literally had to climb over us. See photo below, that I found on the web, which illustrates this exactly.

This image is off the internet, but it was just like this, possibly even more crowded with all the rucksacks.

But it was quite interesting. I mean, when they move the wing flaps, you can see the mechanism moving on the ceiling, like a big axle (at least I think that’s what it was for). When the landing gear was lowered, I could see a bit of it from my seat. Duffel bags were on a pallet in the back, at the end of the seat rows. We entered and exited through the back of the plane where the pallet was placed once we were all on board. Upon approaching Baghdad, I guess they don’t like to take it too slow and shallow on the descent, because that would make the plane more vulnerable for longer, so we quite suddenly began dropping, and I think, spiraling, down. Oooooh, not a nice feeling. I was eyeing up those puke bags on the wall of the plane with some keen interest. At one point I felt like we briefly flirted with zero gravity, though that’s probably an exaggeration… maybe it was half gravity though? Like when a fast elevator suddenly starts its descent. Not helpful for nausea, I can report. Constant yawning, nose holding, and swallowing activities for ear-clearing purposes were the order of the day. We landed with no puking, thank God. Upon arrival, we all filed out the back, and out a ways down from the plane before turning and looping back up towards the entrance to the airport. I guess the circuitous route was to keep us away from the propellers, but they were still blowing a strong, hot wind; it was kind of like standing downwind of a giant hair dryer. 

To move around between bases — and I needed to first go to a base which was two bases along from where we landed — people are transported in different kinds of armoured vehicles called Rhinos (big and grey) and Ice-cream trucks (boxy and white) whose names, of course, are based on how they look. And that’s how I got to Union III in Baghdad, where I settled in for a few days of in-processing and an unsuccessful attempt at jet-lag recovering.

A Rhino, only ours was dark grey.

Ice cream truck - only no actual ice cream is be had from this one.

However, it wasn’t to be long stay, and 2 and half days after arriving, I was quite suddenly told to go pack back up, and bustled off to catch a Blackhawk helicopter as night fell. Things aren’t generally publicly scheduled, and routes always change, for security reasons, so you often don’t know when you might be suddenly making a trip, nor how long it might take. I was extraordinarily tired, but it was exciting, because it was new to me, and I am so enamoured of helicopters that you could practically say I have a crush on them, so I perked up. The ride is another, like the C-130, where you feel distinctly uninsulated from the discomforts and realities of the travel experience.  No glass in the side windows, so there was much warm, noisy wind rushing around the cabin(or whatever you call the inside of a helicopter).  The left side gunner was right in front of me, and the other Blackhawk with us (everyone must have a battle buddy – even helicopters), with all its lights out, was just a black silhouette against the city lights in the sky ahead or sometimes to the side of us. The ride was almost two hours, with about 6 stops. For some of it we were over the city, and for some, just over dark, empty looking land, an occasional small fire, an occasional small building with lights.

The man organizing us at the helipad wrote, in black marker, my destination stop on the back of my hand. As though I was five, or mentally challenged. How it happened was, I was the only one getting off at Taji, and he asked me, “Do you want me to write your destination on your hand?” I was all indignant, “No, I’m fine. Why?” And he says, “Okay, just make sure you don’t get off at the wrong stop – I told you that it would be the third stop en route, but it may or may not be. It can be difficult to hear, and it has happened before that people get off at the wrong place.” I stood there for about 5 seconds mulling that over, envisioning getting confused and off at the wrong base or missing my stop and being stuck, god knows where… So I swallowed my pride, stuck out my hand, and said, “okay, actually, do write it on my hand, please.” This turned out to have been a very good thing. Having your destination written on the back of your hand sends a message: this person is of marginal competence. I think the gunner, when he saw that, decided I was verging on special needs, and took particular care of me, moved me from my original spot in the back, to right beside him up near the front, made sure I stayed put when I started unbuckling at the wrong stops, twice(!), got me out when we had to refuel, and arranged for a guy to come out with a wheeled cart to carry my stuff from the landing site into the heliport when we at last arrived at Taji sometime around midnight. And that is how I got from Fort Benning, Georgia, to my new home in Iraq!

Our Blackhawk was like this, and I was just a couple of feet towards the back from the gunner. See the glass in the windows in back? Ours didn't have that, at least in the front one. I stuck my hand out the frontmost edge of the forward one once, just to feel the air, but the gunner glanced at me, and I thought perhaps I shouldn't be doing that and withdrew it.

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